Christmas Island's Wild Side: Protecting a Fragile, Connected Ecosystem from Land to Sea
An Expedition to Christmas Island, Australia
Christmas Island, a small yet remarkable outpost in the Indian Ocean, sits about 2,600 kilometres northwest of Perth, Australia, and just south of Indonesia. It’s known to many for its historical role in migration policies, but the island is far more than meets the eye. With its dramatic sea cliffs, lush rainforests, and thriving marine ecosystems, Christmas Island is home to some of the most unique wildlife on earth. From red crab migrations to endemic bird species, the island offers an unmatched glimpse into nature’s raw beauty. This remarkable biodiversity drew us to Christmas Island to uncover the stories behind its conservation efforts.
During our expedition leg here, we had the privilege of sitting down with Alexia Jankowski, originally from Fremantle in Western Australia and now serving as the Threatened Species Manager for Christmas Island National Park. Alexia oversees a team of six, working to protect the island’s unique and endangered species through programs focused on monitoring, invasive species control, and habitat rehabilitation. Beyond managing day-to-day operations, Alexia also collaborates with researchers, rangers, and the community to safeguard the future of the island’s extraordinary ecosystems. In our conversation, Alexia shared insights into the past, present, and future of the National Park.
(Alexia Jankowski shares her story about working with Christmas Island National Park. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
The Park’s Power
Andi: We’ve been loving spending time here on Christmas Island for a week. It’s a magical place, unlike anything we’ve seen before! Can you tell us about the National Park and why it’s such a critical place?
Alexia: Absolutely! The National Park covers about 63% of the island’s landmass and was established in the 1980s to protect its biodiversity. The island’s ecosystems have been under threat from invasive species and habitat loss, so the park plays a crucial role in preserving what remains.
It’s also connected to the Christmas Island Marine Park, which spans an astounding 277,016 square kilometers of ocean. This marine park was designated in 2022, making it relatively new, but still vital for protecting marine biodiversity and supporting the community’s economic and cultural values. Together, the national park and marine park safeguard a unique link between land and sea.
A lot of the species here rely on both the terrestrial and marine habitats. For example, seabirds nest in the forest canopy but depend on the ocean for their food. Red crabs spend their lives on land, shaping the forest floor, but they spawn their larvae in the sea. Protecting one without the other just wouldn’t work, so managing both the forest and the marine environment is the way here.
(The red crabs have an annual migration on Christmas Island. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
Imagine a tropical rainforest perched atop a limestone plateau, encircled by dramatic sea cliffs and coastal terraces. This layered structure gives Christmas Island its unique, striking beauty. The forest floor, kept open and clear by red crabs feasting on leaves and saplings, feels surprisingly tidy and inviting—unlike the dense jungle you might expect. Above, seabirds nest high in the canopy, filling the air with a symphony of calls, while just beyond the cliffs, vibrant coral reefs are alive with life. It’s a true wilderness, despite a small local population and the presence of an active phosphate mine.
Andi: Let’s talk more about the coral reefs? After scuba diving, they seem in great condition!
Alexia: The coral cover here is remarkable—over 70%, based on the annual surveys we conduct with Dr. Jennie Mallela and the Australian National University. But maintaining this resilience hasn’t come without its challenges. In 2016, a marine heatwave triggered a mass bleaching event around Christmas Island, with 51% of hard corals affected. By our 2023 survey, we recorded full recovery, with coral cover returning to pre-bleaching levels. However, we observed shifts in coral morphology—many fragile branching corals were replaced by hardier, massive structures.
(Diving around Christmas Island is world-class. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
Then, in March 2024, another marine heatwave caused some bleaching. But nature took an unexpected turn—a massive storm generated enormous waves, one measuring over 11.5 meters in the cove. While the storm caused some damage along the north coast, it also brought cool, deep water to the surface, halting the bleaching and kickstarting coral recovery. It’s not often that storms work in the corals’ favor, but in this case, the upwelling proved to be a critical lifeline. The recovery rates here are phenomenal—some of the fastest anywhere in the world, according to Jennie. Christmas Island’s unique location and natural upwellings give us a big advantage in helping these ecosystems bounce back.
Home to Special Species
Andi: Christmas Island is home to so many remarkable species. What are some of the island’s most iconic or unique animals?
Alexia: We have quite a few, but let’s start with the birds because they’re a big draw for enthusiasts. Birders, or "twitchers," come here specifically to see species they can’t find anywhere else, one example of which is the golden bosun. The birds can often be seen soaring overhead with their stunning golden plumage, from which they get their name. And these creatures are endemic to Christmas Island and the Indian Ocean. We also have the Abbott’s Booby and the Christmas Island Frigatebird, both of which are incredibly special because they only breed on this island. Abbott’s Booby is particularly fascinating as it represents one of the most ancient seabird lineages, and its appearance is unlike any other seabird out there.
But of course, you can’t talk about Christmas Island without mentioning the crabs. The red crab migration is world-famous—it’s something you truly have to see to believe. Then there are the coconut crabs, the world’s largest land crabs. We’re fortunate to have a thriving population here, unlike many other islands where they’ve been hunted to near extinction. Then there’s species like the Christmas Island hawk owl and goshawk which require some effort to find in the forest.
(Christmas Island is known for its bird life. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
In the marine environment, everyone hopes to spot a whale shark. They come here to feed on crab larvae, coral and fish spawn. It’s all about timing, though—there are no planes spotting them from above, like there are in Western Australia’s Exmouth, so you have to be lucky. Beyond that, the coral reefs are home to a diversity of marine life that are considered hybrids, which can’t be found anywhere else.
Andi: Let’s talk about reptiles. What’s happening with them?
Alexia: Reptiles on Christmas Island have faced serious challenges due to invasive species, particularly the Oriental Wolf snake. Two species—the Blue-Tailed Skink and Lister’s Gecko—are now extinct in the wild here. Thankfully, we’ve preserved them through captive breeding programs both on the island and at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo. In 2009 and 2010, as their numbers plummeted, our team swiftly captured 66 Blue-Tailed Skinks and 43 Lister’s Geckos, housing them in secure enclosures. Within a few years, they had vanished from the wild entirely. Over the past decade, these breeding programs have been highly successful, maintaining excellent genetic diversity and paving the way for rewilding efforts.
Reintroducing them has been a learning process. We’ve tested predator-proof enclosures in the jungle, but wolfsnakes and centipedes are incredible climbers, capable of bypassing almost any barrier. Despite this, one site has shown promise, with skinks and some geckos thriving, breeding, and living independently. Our biggest success, however, has been translocating blue-tailed skinks to two islands in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. Since their release in 2019 and 2020, their population has soared to almost 5,000 skinks per island. These insurance populations are vital; they ensure the species’ survival and could one day bolster rewilding efforts on Christmas Island.
(Some of Christmas Island’s endemic species are facing major threats. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
The Past & Present of Christmas Island
Andi: How do the ongoing mining operations and your conservation and rewilding efforts coexist? What’s the balance between these activities on the island?
Alexia: It’s definitely a complex balancing act. Mining has been the backbone of the island’s economy for over a century, and the community values it because it provides jobs and stability. But mining has a limited lifespan—there’s talk of another decade or so before it winds down—and we need to think about what happens next.
That’s where tourism and conservation come in. By protecting the environment and its unique species now, we’re laying the groundwork for other industries to become a major part of the island’s future economy. Initiatives like the “Minesite to Forest Rehabilitation Program” are crucial. Through this partnership with the mine, we’re working to rehabilitate mined areas back into forested environments, creating habitats for wildlife and helping to restore the ecosystem lost.
(Mining plays a big role on the island. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
Andi: You worked in the mining industry before moving into conservation. How did that experience shape your work now?
Alexia: I worked as an environmental advisor on mine sites, ensuring companies adhered to environmental regulations and lease conditions. That role helped me understand the motivators behind resource companies—they’re profit-driven, of course, but they also operate within strict legal frameworks designed to minimize harm.
When I transitioned to conservation, I wanted to shift my focus from resource extraction to environmental protection. That said, my experience in mining is invaluable here because it helps me see both sides and navigate the complexities of these relationships. Rather than opposing each other, we’ve found ways to align our goals—like rehabilitating mined areas into thriving forest habitats. It needs to be a partnership that benefits both the environment and the community.
(There are major replanting efforts happening via the National Park. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
If we were to take an adversarial approach, nothing would get done. Collaboration and good relationships are essential for progress. And really, most people—whether in mining or conservation—want to do the right thing. They just need the right conditions and policies to support those efforts. Having worked on both sides, I’ve seen firsthand how critical it is to strike a balance and find solutions that work for everyone.
Where There’s Challenges, There’s Solutions
Andi: What are the main threats you’re up against today?
Alexia: We’re tackling a range of threats here, from invasive species to the growing impacts of climate change and relentless pollution in these waters. Invasive species have already caused several extinctions on Christmas Island, and managing the current ones is a massive challenge. Yellow crazy ants are one of the biggest problems—they attack red crabs, which are essential to maintaining the forest ecosystem. Without the crabs, the jungle becomes overgrown, disrupting countless habitats that are relied upon by many threatened and vulnerable species.
(The iconic red crab of Christmas Island. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
We’re also dealing with giant centipedes, which prey on native reptiles like geckos and skinks. Feral cats are another big issue, but we’re making progress with a cat eradication program, which will have a huge impact on protecting seabirds, flying foxes, and other native species. Then there’s the oriental wolf snake, introduced in the 1980s, which decimated a number of endemic species and even caused the extinction of the forest skink—the first reptile in Australia to go extinct. They’re incredibly difficult to detect and control, but we’re collaborating with international experts and using innovative methods like environmental DNA (eDNA), biochemical lures and traps to try and suppress their numbers.
Climate change offers another layer of complexity for us that cannot go unnoticed. Rising sea temperatures and shifting currents can impact fish populations, which seabirds like the Christmas Island Frigatebird rely on to feed their chicks. Some of these birds only breed here, so they don’t have the option to move elsewhere. If fish become harder to find, birds may have to travel further, putting additional strain on them.
(Coral reef around the east side of the island. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
Storms are another major concern. Our forests aren’t adapted to withstand strong winds, so severe storms can knock down nesting trees, potentially wiping out an entire breeding season for species like the Abbott’s Booby. And because these birds only produce one chick every two to three years, the effects of a single storm can be devastating. Rising sea levels are also a threat to the island’s few beaches, where green turtles nest. Places like Dolly Beach and Greta Beach could be lost entirely if inundation continues.
Andi: We couldn’t help but notice there’s a ton of marine debris here. Especially on our dives. What’s causing this?
Alexia: The currents here bring in an astonishing amount of debris, mostly from Asia—bottles, fishing gear, and more. You’ve likely noticed it washed up on the beaches, and when the wind and currents shift throughout the year, it only gets worse. It’s a stark reminder of how interconnected we are with the broader region and how global issues impact even the most remote places.
(Hayley Cook with Tangaroa Blue and the National Park conducting a beach clean up. Photo Credit: Adam Moore)
Hayley Cook, who works as the Project Coordinator for the Indian Ocean Territories with Tangaroa Blue Foundation (and also on our team at the National Park), is working to tackle this issue head-on. She organizes regular beach cleanups and marine debris monitoring around Christmas Island and often collects over 1,000 items in a single cleanup, depending on how many volunteers she gets to go alongside her—which often is a lot! From monitoring that happened in September on Greta Beach, she and the team collected over 35,000 pieces in a 10-meter sample site, which is normal for Christmas Island beaches in the dry season when the trade winds blow. All of this debris is logged into the Australian Marine Debris Initiative database, providing valuable data on the scale of the problem. For instance, Greta Beach on Christmas Island recorded the highest average debris density in Australia—302 items per square meter. That’s more than 2,100 times the debris density found at Cape York, Queensland, which is already one of the most debris-affected regions in the country.
A Message from the Remotes
Andi: For people who are thinking of visiting or are just hearing about Christmas Island, what’s the one message you’d want to share with them?
Alexia: I’d say be adventurous and come with an open mind. Christmas Island isn’t your typical tourist destination with paved roads and polished amenities—it’s raw and wild, and that’s its beauty. This isn’t a place designed for easy tourism. Instead, it feels like stepping back to a time before overdevelopment, where nature remains untouched. For those who crave true wilderness, it’s perfect. Grab a map, hop in a car, and explore. It’s all about embracing the adventure and finding beauty in the ruggedness of an untamed place.
(The beauty of Christmas Island’s reefs. Photo Credit: Andi Cross)
There’s incredible potential for the island to support more people in the future, but it will be a slow journey. The remoteness, limited flights, and higher costs make it a challenging destination. Still, for the right person—someone seeking raw, authentic experiences—it’s absolutely worth it. As we continue conservation and rehabilitation efforts, I hope even more people get to experience what makes Christmas Island so special.
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As Told To: Andi Cross | Photography by: Adam Moore | Support from: Christmas Island National Park
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SHE Changes Climate collaborates with the Edges of Earth Expedition, a woman-led team dedicated to highlighting impactful stories from the environmental frontlines. This partnership focuses on amplifying the voices of women who are pioneering positive change in some of the world’s most vulnerable coastal and marine environments, many of whose stories have gone untold.